Tiktok Dermatology: The Good, The Fad & The Ugly | Kristina Collins, MD
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What do beef-tallow face masks, LED light masks, and 10-year-olds with 10-step skincare routines have in common?
They’ve all gone viral on skincare TikTok.
But are they actually safe?
As both a pediatric ophthalmologist and a mom of three, I’m watching this new wave of skincare-curious tweens with equal parts fascination and concern. Between Sephora hauls, skincare fridges, and kids asking for Drunk Elephant products before they even hit middle school, parents are left wondering — when does it all go too far?
To get real answers, I sat down with my friend Dr. Kristina Collins, a Harvard-trained, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, co-founder of Austin Skin and creator of FOY Skincare. You’ve probably seen her busting myths on TikTok or breaking down why sunscreen is still non-negotiable.
The Tween Skincare Boom
Dr. Collins and I started with the obvious question: why is skincare suddenly such a big deal for kids?
She explained that in some ways, it’s a natural evolution. We’re the generation of moms who grew up learning about sunscreen, self-care, and healthy habits — and now our kids are watching us. Just like they once tried on our heels or lipstick, they want a turn with the skincare fridge.
On the bright side, these small rituals can feel relaxing and even empowering. As Dr. Collins put it, “sometimes it’s not about pressure to look a certain way — it’s about doing something that makes them feel good.”
But the darker side of the trend is impossible to ignore. Social media filters and influencer marketing can fuel perfectionism, comparison, and low self-esteem — all before puberty has even finished.
What’s Actually Safe for Tween Skin?
Here’s where most kids (and parents) go wrong:
Adult products ≠ kid-safe products.
Children and pre-teens have thinner, more sensitive skin that’s not built for strong exfoliants or prescription-strength actives. Retinoids, glycolic acid, and high-dose vitamin C serums can easily cause irritation, inflammation, or even conditions like perioral dermatitis — a rash around the mouth and nose that dermatologists are seeing way more often in kids.
So what’s okay?
Gentle cleanser – no scrubs, no foaming overload.
Light moisturizer – bonus points if it includes niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.
Daily sunscreen – a mineral formula with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is safest for sensitive skin.
That’s it. No fancy serums, no anti-aging kits. Just a solid foundation.
The Acne Exception
Interestingly, Dr. Collins pointed out that because puberty is happening earlier, acne is too.
If your tween is starting to show clogged pores or blackheads, early use of gentle acne treatments — like benzoyl peroxide or adapalene (Differin) — can help prevent long-term breakouts.
But here’s the key: keep it simple and consistent. Most skincare ingredients need at least two months to work. A routine overloaded with products can actually make things worse.
Sunscreen, Misinformation, and the TikTok Problem
One of the wildest corners of skincare TikTok is the anti-sunscreen movement.
Yes, you read that right — influencers claiming sunscreen causes cancer or that sunglasses make you “sunburn faster.”
As Dr. Collins explained, these viral videos often twist a tiny grain of truth into a dangerous lie. The science is clear: UV exposure is a proven human carcinogen. Sunscreen doesn’t cause cancer — it prevents it.
Mineral sunscreens (with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) are especially great for kids and sensitive skin. And if your child loves a little glam? Try tinted mineral sunscreen — it’s safe, protects against blue light, and can double as “makeup sunscreen,” as my own daughter calls it.
The DIY Trap
Homemade skincare hacks might sound harmless — lemon juice masks, toothpaste on pimples — but dermatologists see the fallout every day: chemical burns, hyperpigmentation, and skin barrier damage.
If your tween wants to experiment, steer them toward over-the-counter options that have been tested for safety. Benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid washes are affordable, effective, and infinitely safer than TikTok’s latest kitchen-sink concoction.
“Smash or Pass”: The Trend Edition
Here’s the dermatologist take on a few viral favorites:
Slugging (layering thick ointments to lock in moisture) — Great for adults, not for oily-skinned tweens.
Skin cycling — Helpful for sensitive adults using retinoids, but unnecessary for kids.
LED masks — Safe and fun, with small anti-aging and anti-acne benefits.
10-step routines — A hard pass. More isn’t better. It’s inflammation waiting to happen.
What Parents Can Do
At the end of our conversation, Dr. Collins offered the advice every parent needs to hear:
“Use it as an opportunity to get to know your child. Ask why they’re interested. Are they feeling pressure to look perfect, or are they just having fun taking care of themselves? That answer tells you everything.”
When we keep the conversation open — instead of just saying no — we help our kids build a healthy, lifelong relationship with self-care and confidence.
Key Takeaway
Skincare doesn’t need to be scary, complicated, or viral to be effective.
A gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen — plus a dash of curiosity and guidance from parents — go a long way toward healthy skin and self-esteem.
Because sometimes, less really is more.
Follow Dr. Collins on Instagram @drkristinacollins
Check out her practice website www.austinskinphysicians.com
Learn more about her skincare line www.lovefoy.com
Want to Learn More?
This is just the beginning. In upcoming episodes, we’ll explore:
-How screen time and digital habits are shaping our kids’ development
–The connection between vision and overall health
–What you need to know about common eye procedures like LASIK and cataract surgery
–Practical ways to advocate for your child’s visual needs
You can subscribe to my podcast, In Focus, anywhere you listen—or follow along on Instagram for updates and tips.
Watch this episode on Youtube right now!
Thanks for reading—and for doing what you can to protect your child’s vision, one step at a time.
– Dr. Rupa Wong
Pediatric Ophthalmologist | Surgeon | Mom of 3
This episode is brought to you by The Pinnacle Podcast Network! Learn more about Pinnacle at learnatpinnacle.com
